It’s the middle of January and it’s been cold for the last week. Temperatures have been below freezing overnight consistently.

When things like this happen, climbers in the Southeast start to look for frozen waterfalls. There’s usually no shortage of water in the state, but often times it’s not cold enough for long enough to make quality ice climbs available. When the conditions are right, it’s wise to take off work or clear your calendar of any other plans if you wanna go climbing.

The last several years I’ve been making a yearly pilgrimage into the Linville gorge to Climb frozen winter routes. It all started a few years back when I went to climb a route in the amphitheater called the Sunshine Daydream WI4 (FA Lackey/Grimm 1984). Last year, my Climbing partner Tim and I climbed a new route in the Apricot Buttress Gully WI 4 (Fisher/Calkins 1/2024). That was a nice two pitch line and made for a great day out in the mountains.

About a week ago, I took a walk on the West side of the gorge to scout conditions and a particular line on the North Carolina wall caught my eye. There’s a summer rock climb called “The Slimey” that sees very few ascents due to its namesake character. In fact, I only know of two ascents of the route. The FA party and another climber that I dare not share my plan with otherwise they might go climb it first.

As I made several trips during the last week to scout conditions, I kept my eye on this route to see how it was forming up. I looked at it and took pictures with a 300 mm lens on my camera. I could tell the first pitch was gonna be mixed climbing up a ramp. The second pitch looked like amazing vertical ice. My biggest question was gonna be how the third pitch would climb as it’s a chimney and there’s no way to see it from the vantage point I had. Two days before, I scouted the route for the last time and made up my mind that I had to go see what it was about. I was anxious and nervous about the route. Nobody had ever climbed it before in these conditions that I knew of.

I convinced my partner Tim to take Thursday off from work and meet me at 6:30 in the morning. We discussed our plan over the phone the night before and sorted out what we would each bring in our packs. I had my personal climbing kit, a stove, and all the rack. Ice screws, pitons, stoppers and Tricams.

I also made a plan with photographer, Paul Phillips. Paul had reached out to me about a week prior and ask about shooting some ice climbing photos. I knew from the forecast Thursday would be the best day for conditions and told him to plan for that day. I’m glad he was able to make it and capture the moment and the experience on film.

Tim must’ve been excited as well because he arrived 30 minutes earlier than anticipated at our meeting location. Tim jumped in the truck and we made our way up the road towards the trailhead that we would use for the day, the Spence Ridge trail. A few miles of casual-ish hiking get you to where the real action starts. We started descending down into the North Carolina wall via a rarely used approach, called the escape ledge. There’s no markings and no map showing you where to go. It’s off trail navigation at its finest, a few fourth class steps, catbriers, some icy covered ledges and a 60 foot rappel off a stopper we placed at the bottom of the ramp. From there, it’s a short walk to the base of the Slimey.

At the bottom of the route, we got out the stove had a hot drink and started eyeing up the route. I could tell right away that we would climb. I couldn’t tell how far we would climb, but we were going to get some good climbing in. Tim the good partner that he is said that I had the choice to lead any and all pitches that I wanted. I put on the rack, tied into the rope, and started moving upwards. Climbing was fun and unintimidating, starting with a low angle, icy ramp with places to step on some rock as well as having the ice to climb. I was able to get a screw into some ice, placed a stopper in a crack, hammered in one piton, and then a final screw in some ice to get to the belay. Climbing was a little funky and three dimensional as it’s not totally vertical, but certainly not walking terrain.

At the base of the second pitch, ice cascaded down to a perfectly flat ledge where I was able to put in a few ice screws to belay from. Tim was on belay and arrived at the anchor in just a few minutes. I was ready to turn over the lead and let Tim have first go at climbing the ice curtain above. Before I could get the words out of my mouth Tim looked at me and said “You wanted to come out here. You should get to lead this pitch too.” We made the transition and I was back on the sharp end of the rope. As I stepped up to the hanging curtain, it was running with water on the left side where I would typically want to climb because the angle was slightly easier. With all the water coming down, I climbed farther to the right to avoid taking a shower.

The climbing was steep and sustained. I knew I had a long way to go and because of the long walk to get in, I only carried 10 screws on the lead. I climbed about 20 feet to place my first screw as I knew that I needed to be conservative. Another body length or two and I placed another screw. The Climbing was pumpy. Every time I stopped to place protection, I was able to get a rest and shake out my arms a bit. I was fighting with constantly being rained on, having to be conservative with the protection, and keeping the forearm pump in a manageable place. I made it up to the fifth or sixth screw placement and was able to finally have a meaningful rest where I could get off of my arms. At that point, I had made it through the hard part and only had about 40 more feet of easier climbing to get to a belay.

I chose to belay well right of the chimney because it was running with water. I found a chock stone that I could thread a sling around that made a great anchor. After I attached myself to the sling I called down to Tim. It was his turn to follow, and I really do think that he enjoyed it almost as much as I did. After he arrived at the belay we quickly ascertained that climbing the final pitch to the rim of the gorge would not happen in the current conditions. It was an absolute waterfall and trying to climb a chimney in a waterfall doesn’t sound like a good time. We were both happy with the climbing that it happened and started to make our way down. The chock stone made for a great bail anchor and on the icy ledge we were able to make a V thread and then get back to the ground where we celebrated with another round of hot drinks.

There was only one more crux to get out, climbing back up to the escape ledge. One last time I took the sharp end of the rope and started my way up the rock face. The Climbing is probably only 5.5 or 5.6 but in mountain boots and gloves it was properly exciting. I was able to place a good tricam and then almost immediately my foot slipped on some frozen moss. I caught myself without incident and was able to make it up the rest of the pitch. Once at the top all we had left was a schwack through the catbriers to get back on the main trail.

Another good day and some unfinished business in the chimney. I’ll think about this one for a long time. Not only because what was left undone but because of what was done perfectly, the communing with nature and the friendship. Perfect.

Chasing Winter: The Slimey WI4+/5- M3

Route Report: Linn Cove Lullaby, Ship Rock 5.10a